Skip to main content

If it smells like ass, it must be...



Back in the day when I was the Indian cook at Google, mornings used to be pretty hectic for us from the minute the crew walked in. We’d spend the first part of the morning going around from pillar to post, gathering our ingredients for the day. It’s usually quite a scramble, and there wasn't a minute to spare. That's why one morning, I found it rather strange to see three of my fellow cooks and the Executive Chef gathered in front of the Indian spice shelves at 6:00 am deep in conversation. They were holding on to a bright yellow jar with a puzzled look on their faces. “Did you order this?” The Exec Chef asked me, and held up the jar labeled Compounded Asafetida. “You actually cook with this s***t?” he asked me in disbelief. "Oui Chef" I replied. "There's a reason why the French name for this spice is Merde du diable”. (the devil’s poop). Being  classically trained in French culinary arts, chef got it right away.

For those who are unfamiliar with Asafetida, let me tell you, it smells exactly like it sounds. The name is believed to stem from the word ‘Fetid’ which means putrid and unpleasant smelling. It is the dry sap or gum resin from the roots of the Ferula plant. And it stinks! I read somewhere that asafetida was used during the Italian renaissance in exorcisms, and I sincerely believe it! Which is probably why Asafetida has earned the name “Stinking Gum” and "Devil's dung" among many others. So why is Asafetida or Hing as it is referred to in Hindi, used so extensively in Indian cooking? It’s because  a mere pinch when added to a ladleful of hot ghee, emits an aroma that's nothing short of sublime. It's a scent that’s almost similar to leeks and garlic simmering in butter. And once you learn how to cook with it, you can work wonders in the kitchen with this spice.

Asafetida is used extensively in Indian cuisine because of its medicinal properties. It is also known to be a good source of antioxidants and is a very important ingredient in Sattvic cooking, where the use of onion and garlic is discouraged. You will find it being used when tempering daals, and in hard to digest foods like whole beans, cabbage and cauliflower. It is also a vital ingredient in Chaat Masala; the magical finishing spice used in most Indian street food recipes. Ayurvedic medicine states that Asafetida helps with Asthma relief, aids with IBS and contributes towards lowering blood sugar. Nowadays, it is being spoken of as a superfood in some circles, even though modern science doesn't have enough evidence to back that claim.

Asafetida is not readily available at the generic big box grocery stores the way turmeric, garam Masala and cumin seeds are. It can be easily ordered online and there’ll probably be a shelf dedicated to it at your neighborhood Indian grocery store. However, do check the labels if you are sensitive to gluten. Commercial Asafetida is usually sold in powdered form, and mixed with wheat flour as an anti-caking agent. There are a few gluten free versions available that use rice flour, but you have to look for them. However, if you are able to get your hands on the pure stuff, while still in its crystalline form, there is really nothing like it. That stuff is potent!!! It needs to be crushed using a mortar and pestle, but it’s worth the effort. Crystalline Asafetida also works as a very effective prank. Just hide a small chunk in gum wrapper and toss in the waste basket under the desk of your coworker, and everyone in the office will think he's got the runs. Just make sure your desk is far away from there. Very very far away. 

Shut up… don’t ask me how I know this.




Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Eid and the Dum Biryani experience

This year, Eid in Mumbai was a scorcher. A heat advisory was issued, reminding the people of Mumbai to stay hydrated and avoid strenuous activity. You'd think that would be enough to dissuade this chef from his culinary intention of Dum Biryani. Think again. In the urban dictionary, against the term “Sucker for punishment”, there must be a picture of Chef Dama, labeled as exhibit A. Why would anyone want to subject themselves through this torture? To walk to the market when it's over 40 C/100 F outside to procure fresh goat meat, yogurt, long grain basmati rice and spices. A person in his right frame of mind would be snuggled in front of the air conditioner, doing Netflix and chill. Instead there I am sweat drenched in the kitchen, stoves on full blast as I fry a kilogram of sliced onions to make Birishta; the key ingredient in Biryani. Next, into the scorching hot fat go the potatoes. Sure the potato frying process could be skipped. But to miss out on that magic golden orange ...
Post a Comment
Read more

The Bombay Duck (It's actually a Fish)

In Mumbai, everyone waits for June. It’s the start of the monsoon, giving Mumbaikars a much needed break from the sweltering summer. But for me, growing up in the coastal suburb of Bandra, June was a different experience. That’s when I would intentionally stay away from the sea facing areas, because of the stench. June is the start of Bombay Duck season, and the process of salting and drying this fish would fill the air with an aroma that could cause a fainting spell right on the spot in the middle of the street. You wouldn’t be the only one mistaken if the name Bombay Duck made you think of poultry. This name is given to a peculiar species of fish found primarily in the coastal waters of Mumbai and Gujarat. It’s quite an ugly fish with an uncharacteristically large and gaping mouth. The high water content makes the flesh rather gelatinous, almost slimy, causing it to spoil rather easily. The primary method of preserving this fish is salting and drying. Rudimentary bamboo structures ...
Post a Comment
Read more

Spices: To Toast or not to Toast

Have you ever heard the saying, “A little knowledge is a dangerous thing”? I recently understood the full meaning of that statement during my most recent cooking contract. My job is to design Indian food offerings for Employee dining programs, and my clients are mostly large tech firms in Silicon Valley. Now that the Pandemic is mostly behind us, Employee dining programs are slowly coming back on line. And wherever there is a requirement for Indian food, that’s when I get a call. It isn’t an easy time for food service companies right now. When the Pandemic hit, most companies had to shut down, and furlough their staff. These trained cooks found work elsewhere and are not so keen on coming back to the hard life of Kitchen work. Bay Area Food service companies have to depend on Contract laborers through apps like Qwick, Tend and Instawork. You can say contract laborers are like a box of chocolates. You never know which ones you are going to get. Some are great. Some, not so much. And so...
Post a Comment
Read more