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If it smells like ass, it must be...



Back in the day when I was the Indian cook at Google, mornings used to be pretty hectic for us from the minute the crew walked in. We’d spend the first part of the morning going around from pillar to post, gathering our ingredients for the day. It’s usually quite a scramble, and there wasn't a minute to spare. That's why one morning, I found it rather strange to see three of my fellow cooks and the Executive Chef gathered in front of the Indian spice shelves at 6:00 am deep in conversation. They were holding on to a bright yellow jar with a puzzled look on their faces. “Did you order this?” The Exec Chef asked me, and held up the jar labeled Compounded Asafetida. “You actually cook with this s***t?” he asked me in disbelief. "Oui Chef" I replied. "There's a reason why the French name for this spice is Merde du diable”. (the devil’s poop). Being  classically trained in French culinary arts, chef got it right away.

For those who are unfamiliar with Asafetida, let me tell you, it smells exactly like it sounds. The name is believed to stem from the word ‘Fetid’ which means putrid and unpleasant smelling. It is the dry sap or gum resin from the roots of the Ferula plant. And it stinks! I read somewhere that asafetida was used during the Italian renaissance in exorcisms, and I sincerely believe it! Which is probably why Asafetida has earned the name “Stinking Gum” and "Devil's dung" among many others. So why is Asafetida or Hing as it is referred to in Hindi, used so extensively in Indian cooking? It’s because  a mere pinch when added to a ladleful of hot ghee, emits an aroma that's nothing short of sublime. It's a scent that’s almost similar to leeks and garlic simmering in butter. And once you learn how to cook with it, you can work wonders in the kitchen with this spice.

Asafetida is used extensively in Indian cuisine because of its medicinal properties. It is also known to be a good source of antioxidants and is a very important ingredient in Sattvic cooking, where the use of onion and garlic is discouraged. You will find it being used when tempering daals, and in hard to digest foods like whole beans, cabbage and cauliflower. It is also a vital ingredient in Chaat Masala; the magical finishing spice used in most Indian street food recipes. Ayurvedic medicine states that Asafetida helps with Asthma relief, aids with IBS and contributes towards lowering blood sugar. Nowadays, it is being spoken of as a superfood in some circles, even though modern science doesn't have enough evidence to back that claim.

Asafetida is not readily available at the generic big box grocery stores the way turmeric, garam Masala and cumin seeds are. It can be easily ordered online and there’ll probably be a shelf dedicated to it at your neighborhood Indian grocery store. However, do check the labels if you are sensitive to gluten. Commercial Asafetida is usually sold in powdered form, and mixed with wheat flour as an anti-caking agent. There are a few gluten free versions available that use rice flour, but you have to look for them. However, if you are able to get your hands on the pure stuff, while still in its crystalline form, there is really nothing like it. That stuff is potent!!! It needs to be crushed using a mortar and pestle, but it’s worth the effort. Crystalline Asafetida also works as a very effective prank. Just hide a small chunk in gum wrapper and toss in the waste basket under the desk of your coworker, and everyone in the office will think he's got the runs. Just make sure your desk is far away from there. Very very far away. 

Shut up… don’t ask me how I know this.




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