Ajwain: don't take the name in vain

The first time I tasted ajwain was in Macchi Amritsari. I must have been about 17 at the time and a young student at the Institute of Hotel Management in Dadar Mumbai. I’d pick up work as a banquet server, working for hotels and catering companies that cater giant fancy events for fancy rich people. Harpal Singh was this giant of a Sardarji, who ran some of the best Punjabi food in Mumbai. My job for the evening was to be the invisible guy in a black bow tie who floats around with a tray of appetizers. “Amritsari Macchi, ma’am, sir” was what would tell the sahib folk, all engrossed in conversation. Of course, once in the back, I’d sneak a taste of the goods. The unique floral essence with a mildly bitter finish made my developing mind go “Ooh…. what’s that ?” That’s when I remember coming to isolate this peculiar flavor and understand it for what it is.


It was ajwain that made that particular Amritsari Macchi spectacular. Otherwise it’s just another deep fried fish with spices. The ajwain just made it something else. I have always loved cooking with it; it’s a prominent member of the Chef Dama spice pantry. I’ll use it in tadkas for dals, vegetables and sometimes in Vegetable pulao. When it comes to North Indian cooking, you just can’t do without it. 

It’s a curious little spice, this one, even though technically it’s a fruit. Take a sniff, and the first thing that comes to mind is thyme. That's because it’s rich in thymol, the same compound that gives Thyme it’s unique aroma. It sits in my tarka masala dabba (that’s spice dabba #2) right between the coriander, cumin and fennel. They are all part of the same plant family known as Apiaceae. Ajwain, although so tiny, is pretty potent and can be a bit dangerous. A little bit goes a long way, and too much can totally screw up the dish. But just a little bit of these little grains, and your Chana Masala is completely transformed. Once you get hooked on the taste, any Chana Masala without ajwain is just blah. 

Tarla Dalal, the undisputed Julia Child of Indian cookery, absolutely swore by Ajwain. She spoke highly of its medicinal properties, and she used them generously in her recipes for Handvo, Oondhiyu and Fafda. The active ingredient thymol aids in the secretion of digestive juices in the stomach, thus helping with indigestion, gas and flatulence. She claims that Haldi Doodh (Turmeric Milk) with Ajwain will do wonders to cure a sore throat. It is also known to combat infection, aid in weigh loss and helps in managing high blood pressure as well. The more I read about it, the more I am convinced this could be the next superfood everyone will be talking about.

Once you bet the basics down, and you feel like you want to expand your Indian cooking, ajwain should be the first choice of ingredient you want to play with. It is relatively inexpensive and readily available at your neighborhood Indian grocery store. I recommend stocking up. It will open your eyes to so many new culinary possibilities.

However, now I think it’s time to pay a visit to my local fishmonger. All this talk of ajwain is making me crave for some crispy Macchi Amritsari. I like to have mine like Fish Taco, on a paratha with a crispy citrusy cabbage slaw, a creamy cilantro mint chutney and generous amount of ajwain in the marinade. Now pair that with a chilled Kingfisher Lager and life is good!!!