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The Bombay Duck (It's actually a Fish)




In Mumbai, everyone waits for June. It’s the start of the monsoon, giving Mumbaikars a much needed break from the sweltering summer. But for me, growing up in the coastal suburb of Bandra, June was a different experience. That’s when I would intentionally stay away from the sea facing areas, because of the stench. June is the start of Bombay Duck season, and the process of salting and drying this fish would fill the air with an aroma that could cause a fainting spell right on the spot in the middle of the street.


You wouldn’t be the only one mistaken if the name Bombay Duck made you think of poultry. This name is given to a peculiar species of fish found primarily in the coastal waters of Mumbai and Gujarat. It’s quite an ugly fish with an uncharacteristically large and gaping mouth. The high water content makes the flesh rather gelatinous, almost slimy, causing it to spoil rather easily. The primary method of preserving this fish is salting and drying. Rudimentary bamboo structures are erected across all the coastal fishing villages in Mumbai from where this fish is hung out to dry. You can’t miss it even if you can’t see it. The smell just gives it away.


Now why would anyone name a fish a duck is anyone’s guess? There are several theories, but no one can say for sure. Some believe it comes from the anglicization of “Bombay Dak”, Dak being the Hindi word for mail. During British times, shipments of this dried fish would be sent via rail from Mumbai to Kolkata, lending its characteristic aroma to everything in its proximity. Another theory states that it is the anglicized version of the market cry “Bombil Tak”. In the local dialect of Marathi, this fish is called Bombil. At the street fish markets, the fisherfolk would market their wares by calling out “Bombil Tak”, which translates to “Get your bombil fish here”. No one knows for sure how this name came to be, but anyone ordering Bombay Duck expecting a bird will be in for quite the surprise.


The dried Bombay duck is quite an acquired taste. A simple meal of rice and daal is uniquely elevated with a little bit of this potent fish on the side. When fried in oil, it takes on a unique salty crispiness, and pairs deliciously with whatever you are eating, like eating papad. It is also turned into a pickle as well as a fiery chutney accompaniment to a meal. But when it’s eaten fresh as the main feature, there’s no other experience I can think of that comes close to it.


My favorite way to eat Bombay Duck is dredged and fried.
Start with a simple marinade of garlic, chili, turmeric and cumin, dredge in breadcrumbs or semolina and pan fried till crispy. There’s something magical about the crispy crust yielding to the soft bite that literally melts in the mouth. It tastes best after being doused in several generous squeezes of lime. Paired with a chilled Lager, I can’t think of a lazy Sunday experience that can come close to this.


The true Bombay Duck experience can only happen in Mumbai. This fish isn’t exported much because it doesn't travel well. It just isn’t the same after being thawed from frozen. You can find several restaurants that do an exemplary job with this fish, but your best bet is to make friends with a local aunty and find a way to get invited for dinner. Bring lots of Kingfisher. I’m referring to the brand of beer. Again, not an actual bird.

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