Skip to main content

Memories of Mumbai: Ramadan Part 2




If you are the sort of person thrilled by daring culinary experiences, you have got to pay a visit to the Mohammed Ali Road area in South Mumbai during Ramadan. This is undoubtedly Mumbai’s most iconic destination for Mughalai street food. Mughlai cuisine is the food of the Mughal empire, the dynasty from central Asia and Persia that ruled northern India from the 14th century until the advent of the British. Mughal royalty were known for their opulence with regards to art, music, poetry and food. The royal nawabs battled for bragging rights of having the best kitchens and those same culinary masterpieces are on display here during this holy month. Streets are closed off to automobile traffic, allowing patrons to uninterrupted access to engorging themselves shamefully. This event draws an estimated 40,000 people per day during the week, and around 100,000 on weekend days.


Every evening, the raucous noises of the market turns to an eerie hush as the sun starts to hover over the horizon. It’s approaching Iftaari (the breaking of the fast) and shopkeepers start laying out generous portions of seasonal fruit; watermelon, muskmelon, bananas as well as an offerings of fried foods for themselves. Foods are chosen specifically to replenish the body after a day of rigourous abstinence from food and water. In the center are dried dates, what is required to break the fast with. Once the azaan (call to prayer) resonates, all the wares are left unattended in the streets, as the merchants gather with the community for the breaking of the fast. No business is transacted during that time. No one dares steal nor shoplift either. It’s just an unwritten code of honor.

Shortly after that, the scenery changes to business as usual. In Khao Gully (the street food strip) it's a fight to the finish hawking what’s on the menu. Charcoal flames are ablaze on every corner with skewers of marinated chicken and lamb kebab, dripping fat on to live charcoal and sending out dizzying clouds of aroma into the atmosphere. Giant kadhais filled with hot ghee sizzle angrily as batter is introduced. These are turned into delicacies such as Malpuas and Mava Jalebis. Clay pots laden with phirni, a rose and cardamom scented rice pudding beckons you enticingly as you walk by. What’s most admirable about Islamic cuisine is the use every part of the animal. What animal parts that usually get discarded in western countries, are turned into the main feature. Bheja masala; spicy stir fry of lamb’s brain, Gurda masala; the kidney in masala spices, Nalli Niharl; an unctuous stew of the shank and hooves of the lamb, Kheeri and Kaleji kebabs; chargrilled udders and the liver, these are just a few of the sought after items on offer Don’t be alarmed, there are plenty of other ‘approachable’ choices for the less adventurous, like Tandoori chicken, seekh kababs, Biryani, Haleem and Kormas to choose from.


If you do venture out to this event, I advise you to go with lower than normal expectations of food hygiene and sanitation. The tables and chairs laid out on the sidewalk and streets may not be too well sanitized between seatings. It is not uncommon to have goats gnawing on fruit peels from the exposed garbage heap right by where you sit. Stray dogs and cats hover around in anticipation of your food scraps. On occasion, an adventurous rat may scurry across your feet from under the tables, looking for treats dropped by previous patrons. This may not be everyone's cup of chai, but for those who can look past it, the results are truly rewarding.

Just remember the immortal words of the late great Anthony Bourdain. “If what you eat doesn’t possess at least a 50 % chance of diarrhea and dysentery, it’s probably not worth eating”.

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

A Sindhi Kadhi Experience

  Being the cultural melting pot of a city that it is, Mumbai is known for its opulent and extravagant food scene. However no restaurant can capture the warmth, authenticity and love of a home cooked meal. One of my most cherished memories of my Mumbai trip was a true Sindhi dining experience, thanks to the gracious invitation to dinner by my Sindhi school friend, Deepak Choithramani.  The Sindhi people originally hail from the province of Sindh, an area of great historical significance dating back to the Indus Valley civilization of 2500 BCE which is now in modern day Pakistan. This was a thriving community the country’s Independence in 1947. The partition caused the displacement of hordes of Hindu Sindhis, who were forced to flee to India to avoid persecution, forced conversion and genocide. They settled in many parts of northwestern India, primarily Gujarat and Maharashtra, and started their lives from scratch. In just a few decades of that happening, the Sindhis  esta...

Eid and the Dum Biryani experience

This year, Eid in Mumbai was a scorcher. A heat advisory was issued, reminding the people of Mumbai to stay hydrated and avoid strenuous activity. You'd think that would be enough to dissuade this chef from his culinary intention of Dum Biryani. Think again. In the urban dictionary, against the term “Sucker for punishment”, there must be a picture of Chef Dama, labeled as exhibit A. Why would anyone want to subject themselves through this torture? To walk to the market when it's over 40 C/100 F outside to procure fresh goat meat, yogurt, long grain basmati rice and spices. A person in his right frame of mind would be snuggled in front of the air conditioner, doing Netflix and chill. Instead there I am sweat drenched in the kitchen, stoves on full blast as I fry a kilogram of sliced onions to make Birishta; the key ingredient in Biryani. Next, into the scorching hot fat go the potatoes. Sure the potato frying process could be skipped. But to miss out on that magic golden orange ...

The call every Immigrant dreads

I got the call over the weekend. The one that every immigrant is terrified to receive. Mom is not feeling well. She is experiencing terrible abdominal pains and had to be admitted to hospital. My sister has flown down to Mumbai from Bangalore to be with her. I must stay ready to come down if the situation worsens. A certain feeling of helplessness and fear takes over. I wish I could be there right now more than anything, so I could help with the care process. However given the state of the pandemic, the need for quarantine after travel and the limited space in our two bedroom Mumbai apartment, I would only be more of a burden than a solution as of now. This is the scourge of the immigrant. When you choose to be an immigrant, you choose to always be an outsider. There isn’t a true home for you anymore. You no longer belong in the country of your birth, but you don’t really belong in the new country you have chosen. You really don’t truly belong anymore. Perhaps this was what led me to b...