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Memories of Mumbai: Ramadan Part 2




If you are the sort of person thrilled by daring culinary experiences, you have got to pay a visit to the Mohammed Ali Road area in South Mumbai during Ramadan. This is undoubtedly Mumbai’s most iconic destination for Mughalai street food. Mughlai cuisine is the food of the Mughal empire, the dynasty from central Asia and Persia that ruled northern India from the 14th century until the advent of the British. Mughal royalty were known for their opulence with regards to art, music, poetry and food. The royal nawabs battled for bragging rights of having the best kitchens and those same culinary masterpieces are on display here during this holy month. Streets are closed off to automobile traffic, allowing patrons to uninterrupted access to engorging themselves shamefully. This event draws an estimated 40,000 people per day during the week, and around 100,000 on weekend days.


Every evening, the raucous noises of the market turns to an eerie hush as the sun starts to hover over the horizon. It’s approaching Iftaari (the breaking of the fast) and shopkeepers start laying out generous portions of seasonal fruit; watermelon, muskmelon, bananas as well as an offerings of fried foods for themselves. Foods are chosen specifically to replenish the body after a day of rigourous abstinence from food and water. In the center are dried dates, what is required to break the fast with. Once the azaan (call to prayer) resonates, all the wares are left unattended in the streets, as the merchants gather with the community for the breaking of the fast. No business is transacted during that time. No one dares steal nor shoplift either. It’s just an unwritten code of honor.

Shortly after that, the scenery changes to business as usual. In Khao Gully (the street food strip) it's a fight to the finish hawking what’s on the menu. Charcoal flames are ablaze on every corner with skewers of marinated chicken and lamb kebab, dripping fat on to live charcoal and sending out dizzying clouds of aroma into the atmosphere. Giant kadhais filled with hot ghee sizzle angrily as batter is introduced. These are turned into delicacies such as Malpuas and Mava Jalebis. Clay pots laden with phirni, a rose and cardamom scented rice pudding beckons you enticingly as you walk by. What’s most admirable about Islamic cuisine is the use every part of the animal. What animal parts that usually get discarded in western countries, are turned into the main feature. Bheja masala; spicy stir fry of lamb’s brain, Gurda masala; the kidney in masala spices, Nalli Niharl; an unctuous stew of the shank and hooves of the lamb, Kheeri and Kaleji kebabs; chargrilled udders and the liver, these are just a few of the sought after items on offer Don’t be alarmed, there are plenty of other ‘approachable’ choices for the less adventurous, like Tandoori chicken, seekh kababs, Biryani, Haleem and Kormas to choose from.


If you do venture out to this event, I advise you to go with lower than normal expectations of food hygiene and sanitation. The tables and chairs laid out on the sidewalk and streets may not be too well sanitized between seatings. It is not uncommon to have goats gnawing on fruit peels from the exposed garbage heap right by where you sit. Stray dogs and cats hover around in anticipation of your food scraps. On occasion, an adventurous rat may scurry across your feet from under the tables, looking for treats dropped by previous patrons. This may not be everyone's cup of chai, but for those who can look past it, the results are truly rewarding.

Just remember the immortal words of the late great Anthony Bourdain. “If what you eat doesn’t possess at least a 50 % chance of diarrhea and dysentery, it’s probably not worth eating”.

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