Rajma Masala: A bowl of comfort for those cold evenings

Having grown up in Mumbai, I never really knew what a severely cold winter felt like. I barely remember ever needing a sweater more than once or twice a year. Winter would come, winter would go, we would hardly know it. Then I graduated from Hotel Management school, and accepted an offer from ITC Hotels to join their Management Trainee program. This meant I had to relocate to Delhi. It was the middle of November 1993 was this Mumbai kid got to know what a real winter feels like. Never before did I ever have to face the choice between going outside or remaining indoors, huddled under blankets. Let me tell you, there were many such indoor days that year. You never can forget your first winter away from home. I began to understand the meaning of bleak and dreary very quickly. During those times, Rajma Masala came to my rescue.

Rajma Masala on rice brings about a certain kind of hearty comfort that very few other meals can. Rajma is the Hindi word for Kidney Bean, and Rajma Masala is a rich unctuous stew made by stewing the red beans for hours in a masala made from onions, tomato, ginger, garlic and spices. The starch coaxed out from the beans results in a texture that is creamy and most satisfying, warming you up from the insides from the first morsel that slides into the belly. It's surprising when you think about it. Kidney beans were a late addition to the Indian culinary repertoire. Just like tomatoes and chilies, India did not know what a Kidney Bean was until it was discovered in Central America. It did not take very long however to become one of the chief comfort foods of Northern India. 

Back then, there was a cook by the name of Ram Singh, hired to cook our meals. He wasn’t particularly gifted nor skilled at cooking by any stretch of the imagination. Some days, his food was barely palatable. However his Rajma Masala was fantastic. It had the perfect balance of tanginess, spicy and creamy, with rich overtones of ginger and garlic. On Rajma Masala days, I’d be the first one in line, plate and bowl in hand, ready for some serious shoveling, before the hungry hordes descended. I wasn't the only one who felt that way about Ram Singh's Rajma Masala. Recently I have been craving that dish, and decided to make it for dinner a couple nights ago. It probably has something to do with the sun starting to set earlier, and evenings starting to get nippier.

It’s also important to soak the beans for at least 4 hours before cooking

When choosing the beans for Rajma Masala, make need to make sure you get the large fat red variety at the store. I once got the smaller Mexican variety, and wasn’t entirely thrilled with it. Those small beans tend to hold their shape and structure, even after soaking and boiling for long periods of time. This may be great for salads, but a little too chewy for stews, in my opinion. You want the beans to break down like butter in your mouth. It’s also important to soak the beans for at least 4 hours before cooking, in order to leach out the stored phytic acid that tends to cause digestive discomfort. Simply put, you will probably fart like a choo choo train going uphill if you don't go through with the soaking process. A pinch of baking soda is always a good idea during soaking. This will help often the stubborn thick outer skin, speed up the cooking time and make the beans even creamier. With regards to the ginger and garlic, like Ram Singh's idea of rough chopping, instead of turning it into a paste. It goes in before the onions and flavors the oil nicely as it cooks down with the onions. It lends an overall milder flavor to the dish, and allows for a pleasant occasional little burst of flavor when you bite into a piece. It compliments the heartiness of this stew quite well.

As we get into the winter months, why don’t you give Ram Singh’s Rajma Masala a try. It’s hearty, satisfying and very economical. Not a bad thing, considering the worst inflation we are seeing in decades. If the rich and indulgent warmth of this dish doesn't bring a smile to your face, the frugality most certainly will.

RECIPE: RAM SINGH’S RAJMA MASALA


Kidney beans - 1 cup - Soaked for 4 hours with salt and a pinch of baking soda


Mustard Oil- 1 tablespoon


Tadka:

Cumin seeds - ½ teaspoon

Asafoetida - ⅛ teaspoon


Ginger - 1 teaspoon - medium diced

Garlic - 1 teaspoon - medium diced


Onions - ½ cup - finely diced


Spice paste:

Turmeric powder - ¼ teaspoon

Red chili powder ¼ teaspoon

Cumin powder - ½ teaspoon

Coriander powder - 1 teaspoon


Combine in a bowl - add water gradually and mix well to form a thick paste


Roma Tomato - 2 medium sized - pureed

Salt - ½ teaspoon - or however much works for you

Garam Masala - ⅛ teaspoon


Cilantro - Garnish


EQUIPMENT:

2 x 6 to 8 quart stock pot with tight fitting lid.


PROCEDURE:

Drain Kidney beans, wash - cover with water - bring to a boil


Add salt - simmer for 45 minutes or till beans are tender and crush easily when pressed


Heat oil, add cumin seeds, asafoetida - saute 30 seconds


Add ginger and garlic - saute till the raw smell are gone


Add onions saute for 10 - 12 minutes till caramelized


Add spice paste - saute till oil starts to separate


Add Tomato puree - saute 3 - 5 minutes - add water to prevent scorching


Add kidney beans and cooking liquid - mix well - bring to a boil, then reduce to simmer


Continue simmering 30 - 45 minutes till liquid starts to thicken and flavors come together


Sprinkle garam masala - cover and allow to rest for at least 20 minutes before serving.


NOTE: The resting period after cooking is important - this is when the liquid starts to thicken, and flavors start to marry



Garnish with cilantro, serve with rice, sliced cucumber, tomatoes or any fresh vegetable of your choice