Udipi Staples: Idli, Vada and Dosa

My school lunch was usually brown bagged. However, on occasion, when Mom would have a particularly busy schedule, I'd get a few rupees to go buy lunch wherever I chose. Those days were trouble for me.  I’d be called at more often than usual for being distracted. That's because lunch was going to be at Balaji's on Hill Road, the Udipi restaurant adjacent to my school.

Udipi restaurants are an institution all over India, but particularly cherished in Mumbai. These vegetarian restaurants are simple, economical and food is of exceptional quality. Udipi is a city in Karnataka which lends its name to the style of food. While you can be assured of a wholesome and satisfying vegetarian meal there, the chief reason to visit is for the three key staples; Idli, Vada and Dosa. These dishes are fairly cumbersome to make, requiring skill, patience and special equipment. Udipi restaurants have these dishes mostly down to a science

I can never forget my first Masala Dosa. "What sorcery is this?" I remember asking in bewilderment. How does a crepe achieve such divine crispy structure, allowing it to stand on itself when folded?And there's hidden treasure inside!?! A savory mashed potato filling holding such simple yet elegantly balanced flavors; hints of garlic, chillies and lime with slight a cilantro accent to compliment the mildly sour fermented rice and lentil crepe.


The accompanying sides are Sambar and Coconut chutney. Sambar is a simple lentil stew made with seasonal vegetables and a unique combination of spices. Coconut chutney is a mild, naturally sweet and deliciously creamy coconut relish. My preferred way of Masala Dosa consumption is to always aim for the perfect bite; a morsel of potato filling wrapped in a piece of crispy dosa, shamelessly dunked in chutney till it's all up in my fingernails, and then chased with a generous gulp of sambar. Don’t be shy. You get free refills of sambar and chutney, as much as you want. A single bite contains a wondrous multitude of tastes and textures, all coming together in magical unison. Just like a four part harmony, each component beautiful on its own, but ethereal when brought together as one.

And then, there's the Idli and the Medu Vada. Idlis are steamed cakes made from fermented rice and lentil batter. Medu Vadas are donut shaped deep fried savory cakes made from soaked and ground Urad lentils with seasonings and spices. While idlis are soft and pillowy, Medu Vadas are crispy on the outside and spongy soft on the inside. Both are meant to be soaked in the sambar and drizzled (or doused) with coconut chutney before inhalation. I could never decide which of the two I liked better, but luckily, Balaji's offers you a Mix Plate, offering you one of each. Problem solved.

At Balaji's on Hill Road in Bandra, I once again transformed into that little boy in his St. Stanislaus white shirt and gray trousers school uniform, licking his fingers between bites. I may be older and more worldly now, but the essence of me remains quite the same. A lot like Balaji’s. I remember when this place was a dumpy no frills hole in the wall. Now it has paint on the walls, tables that don’t wobble and ceiling fans that actually work. Yet amidst the changes brought about by its success, the taste and the quality of food have still remained the same.

And like always, it's still impossible to find a seat without at least a 20 minute wait.